As a matter of personal preference, I like to keep as much sediment and debris out of my boil kettle as possible. It not only helps with clarity, but lessens the amount of trub in the bottom of a fermentor which means more beer come bottling time. To aid in this end I've acquired a few re-usable nylon drawstring bags from the home brew store made for holding hops or other spices and additives (like Irish Moss). They work great, and I've not had any problem with hop utilization.
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Excessive trub (troob) = less beer for drinking |
The bags are handy, and do well enough, but no matter how I tie or clamp the bag to the kettle, it always ends up floating freely in the boiling wort. Not such a big problem until it comes time to add more hops or spices. Then one must pull the bag out of the wort, and pull open the drawstring which sticks due to being soaked. I've come to accept slightly scalded fingers as just another unavoidable part of brew day. Actually adding hops, especially whole leaf hops, becomes quite a hassle as well.
The Hop Spider solves this issue, making hop, spice, fruit, etc, additions quick and painless! It's a quick and rather inexpensive build. Here goes:
Parts & Cost List:
- Power drill (free! Christmas present!)
- File, emery board, or hobby knife (also free!)
- Appropriately sized drill bit (came with drill!)
- Marker (free!)
- 4" to 3" PVC reducing coupler ($4)
- 3 5/16" x 6" carriage bolts ($.74 ea, $2.50 altogether)
- 6 5/16" hex nuts to fit carriage bolts ($.11 ea, $.66)
- 6 5/16" washers to fit carriage bolts ($.12 ea, $.72)
- 1 #56 screw clamp ($1.53. The article suggests one with a turn-key. Unfortunately I couldn't find one.)
- Nylon paint straining bags ($2 for pack of 2. Cheaper than the brew shop. Either 1 or 5 gallon capacity depending on boil size and hop affinity)
After assembling together all parts and tools (don't forget eye protection!), make three equidistant marks where you will drill holes for the carriage bolts. If the marks aren't perfectly equidistant, the Hop Spider will still support itself fine. I actually drilled four holes and will add a fourth bolt simply because I'm a tad neurotic and don't like odd numbers.
I used a 5/16" drill bit as my carriage bolts are 5/16" diameter x 6" long. Use longer carriage bolts if your pot is larger. When drilling the PVC coupler, watch for flying hot pieces of PVC, and do so in an area where the many PVC shavings will be easily cleaned. I didn't have much issue with it, but if there are any burrs in the holes, use the file or hobby knife to trim them away so they don't eventually fall into your wort.
Screw a nut onto the first carriage bolt, followed by a washer and insert it into one of the drilled holes. From the inside place another washer followed by a second hex nut onto the bolt and tighten it. Hand tightening is all that is required and will make disassembling the Hop Spider easier come post-boil clean up.
Next, slip the elastic banded collar of the nylon straining bag around the 3" portion of the coupler and fasten it down with the screw clamp. The bags are reusable but are also dirt cheap so they can also be tossed to make clean up even easier (Plus, SWMBO doesn't like her unmentionables washed with hop bits)!
Huzzah, you're finished! Couldn't be easier right? Thanks to BYO magazine, and author of the Hop Spider build article, John Brooke. I rather enjoyed building my Hop Spider, so much so, that I almost wish it wasn't so quick and easy. Now I need to find something else to build! Can't wait for next brew day!
I'm gonna build one of these, it's perfect for brewing IPA's with a high hop bill.
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